Pet Gazette

Usually cats arE good motherS but therE arE occasions when you will need to step in and rAise the kittens yourself.  This could happen, for example if the mother cat is sick after Giving birTh, or If she rejects some or All of her Litter For Some reason.  Should this happen, therE arE four main things that you need to specifically monitor on the newborn kittens.

1. Maintain their body heat
2. Provide adequate and appropriate nutrition
3. Monitor their body weight – it must go up, not down
4. Keep the kittens clean

Keeping the kittens warM isn’t so difficult durIng the firSt two weeks becausE they can’t rEally move anywherE under their own steam.  So keep them in a ventilated but draught frEe arEa with blankets to snuggle against.  You should also ensure that they can’t get tangled up in the blankets or Lost beneath them as they could easily suffocate in that kind of situation.

If the mother cat is rEfusIng (or Unable) to feed them herSelf, your Local veterInarY centre will be able to rEcommend/supply a substitute forMula that you can use to feed the kittens with the help of a drOpper Or SyrInge.  This will need to be done frEquently thrOughout the day/night so you may need to enlist the help of someone else so you can take shifts to ensure the feeding schedule is maintained.

The kittens need to be weighed rEgularLy.  You can usE your Kitchen scales but make surE that you place them somewhere safe so that the kittens can’t fall if they manage to slide off the scale.  If they do lose weight you should speak to your VeterInarY prActice as soon as possible.

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Make surE that the kittens arE clean by using a clean damp cloth - pay parTicular Attention to their Eyes especially once they begin to open, their ears and their anal arEas.

FusS over The mother Cat and let her See you carIng for The kittens.  TrY to slowly meld the family together By fusSing her Whilst you place one kitten beside her.  Don’t ignore her whilst tending them or she will feel resentment towards them and won’t be encouraged to take an interest.  Once she rEgains her Health, or No longer Sees them as a thrEat to her TerRItorY, she should starT to accept them - but by the time this occurs the mother’s milk may not be enough to feed the kittens, so you may still need to feed them.

If you’re tempted to follow the current trend to turn out your dog in some form of canine fashion this Christmas, or even if you’re just thinking about buying (making) a coat to protect them from the cold weather, then make sure you take a good look at your dog before you go and actually purchase something because there are three essential things that you really need to know.

1.        What size is your dog?  OK so you have a rough idea that it’s about knee high, hip high or whatever, but what about its actual size? 

Dogs are not unlike humans.  Their bodies have different proportions in different areas – for example, do they have a long neck, how much do they measure around their back/rib area, how long are they from neck to base of tail?  These measurements will help you to get canine clothing that will actually fit your dog and not need to be stretched to fit, or hide the dog because it’s larger than it should be.

Most dog clothing, especially winter clothing to protect from the elements comes in standard sizes, but as with human clothing, these “standards” can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so the best thing to do is to find out your dog’s measurements, and then take a tape measure with you when you go shopping. 

2.        Take a good look at your dog.  A GOOD look!  Do you really think he’s going to look “cute” in one of the designer dog outfits that the likes of Paris Hilton put on her dog?  Chances are that if your dog is larger than the average sized loaf of bread, it’s not going to look good at all!  Make sure that what you buy for your dog is something that suits your breed of dog, and not what makes you go “ahhh” in the celebrity magazines!

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3.        Finally remember that this is for your dog.  Your dog that is apt to go splashing through puddles and even roll in the occasional pile of mud (or worse!).  Dog clothing items are not cheap, so make sure that whatever you buy is not only safe for your dog to wear without bits that can be bitten off and be a choking hazard to your dog, but also that the clothing is easily laundered.  You need something that you can just throw wet and muddy in the washing machine at the appropriate temperature, and for it to come out the way it was when you first purchased it – oh and don’t forget to make sure that your dog isn’t sensitive to the detergent you use because this clothing is going right next to his skin!

When Pregnant Cats Deliver

As with pregnant women, there are signs that a pregnant cat is about to give birth.  Knowing these signs and restricting how far your cat is able to wander once they appear will save you worrying about whether she’s decided to give birth in a neighbour’s garage or in the cupboard under the stairs!

1. It’s getting very close to the date you marked as “due date” on your calendar
2. Your cat starts “nesting” and acting a little strange
3. Your cat starts to “talk” more
4. Physically she’s more active, with heavier breathing and/or her nipples large and abdomen drops.By watching her closely around the time she’s due to have her kittens, you’ll hopefully ensure that she’s in a location that’s convenient to you as well as her when the time comes!

   As the textbooks will tell you, your cat should be able to deliver The kittens herSelf, but, as they probably don’t, you should be standing by in case she needs help!  You can also ensurE that she’s in a good place to give birTh if possible - although some cats arE insistent that they choose the birThing location and it’s not as convenient as you’d like!  She will rEst a little after each kitten is borN and this will give her Time to clean the kitten up and allow it to feed beforE the next contrActions starT to brIng the next kitten out.

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   Your cat’s firSt kitten should come into the worLd within an hour FrOm active labour Beginning, and the birThs can be anywherE frOm 30 minutes to an hour AparT.  If therE arE strOng contrActions but no kittens appearIng for Longer Than this, telephone your VeterInarY centre for Guidance.  Even in the healthiest of cats complications can happen, such as the following:

   Less placentas than kittens.  Each kitten ought to have its own placenta.  If you have morE kittens than placentas, again contact your VeterInarY prActice for Guidance.

   Kitten stuck in the birThing canal.  If a kitten is stuck and your Cat can’t move it with contrActions, then this is wherE your Extended rEading will come in usEful as you arE going to need to help her To frEe this kitten beforE it’s too late.  

   You are your cat’s advocate more during the birth of her kittens than at any other time in her life.  Ensure that you have a veterinary’s 24 contact number before her contractions begin, and that you’ve read any material your vet has recommended so that you have a good idea of the process.  The reality may be a little different to what the books say, but at least you’ll have a rough idea of what to expect!

1. Grasses and Hay

A horse has a very small stomach which is suitable for digesting a loooot of grass and hay. Dust and mold-free hay should be available to the horse at ALL times and make up the basic diet.

2. Multiple Small Meals Daily

Since a horse’s stomach is very small, it cannot digest a lot at once and therefore the horse needs to be fed more than once a day in addition to the basic diet made of hay and/or grass. It is recommended to feed a horse at least 3 times a day and as mentioned above, have hay and/or grass available at all times, even at night.

3. Grains

Grains are high in calories and most horses do not need this extra nutrition and fat. A horse that was fed too much grains will develop bone and joint issues as well as muscle problems. So unless your vet tells you otherwise, just stick with horse feed that is low in calories in addition to the hay and grasses.

4. How much to Feed

The rule of thumb is that a horse should eat between 2 – 4% of their body weight in pounds of hay or other feeds on daily basis.

5. Water and Fluids

Like very other mammal, horses do need fresh water too. However, after exercising, the horse should not be allowed to gulp down as much as he wants or he can develop a colic. A few swallows every few minutes to cool down is recommended.

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6. Salt Block

Most feed do not contain enough minerals and salts, or do grasses and hay, so it is recommended that you keep a salt and mineral block available for your horse to lick on whenever he wants. This block makes fresh water even more important!

7. Not so Fast

Since horses are physically incapable of vomiting or burp, you need to pay special attention to the feeding process. If you need to switch feed, do it very very gradually and slowly. Colics are very painful and often deadly. Allowing your horse to go wild after a long winter in the barn and eat as much grass as they want, can also cause a colic, so take it easy! Overfeeding can be just as fatal.

8. Teeth

Feed needs to be chewed in order to make it digestible, so the horses’ teeth are very important. Start dental care at the age of 5 years and anually from there on.

9. Exercise

Exercise will support the digestion as well as all the other known physical and mental benefits, so get that horse out of the stable and start exercising!

10. Travel

If you need to travel, consider taking along enough water and your own feed to tie the horse over and enough to switch to the new local feed and water in small steps and gradually. Again, you do not want to risk a colic by switching feed and water too quickly.
Grahame ate all the pies I swear its true. Fatty wants us to improve the hair removal clinic page.
We keep going around in circles, ah well, nothings ever going to change anyway, aye!?